President Xi and First Lady Peng Liyuan arrived in Vietnam to pay a state visit. Instead of a formal Western-style dress, Peng Liyuan wore a costume which echoed Asian elements of cheongsam.
Cheongsam is not unique to China. Ao Dai, the traditional costume of Vietnam is also originated from cheongsam. "Ao" comes from Chinese character "袄", meaning clothes, while "Dai" stands for "long".
奥黛是越南的传统服装, 源自中国旗袍。奥黛是中文对越语的音译。但是如果大家偶然浏览越共的中文版网站,就会发现"旗袍" 其实是官方称谓。
Chinese cheongsam
Vietnam's Ao Dai
MATERIAL
Ao Dai usually makes use of soft cloth like silk. The upper section is a long-sleeve shirt resembling Chinese cheongsam which highlights the female form. Unlike the cheongsam, an Ao Dai can be worn with long pants to match.
奥黛通常使用丝绸等软性布料, 上衣是剪裁合身的长衫,凸显玲珑曲线, 侧开高叉至腰部, 走路时前后两片裙摆随风飘逸。
HISTORY
Early Ao Dai
Women in north Vietnam started wearing ao tu than, a kind of loose dress with four hemlines. This is the earliest recorded reference to Ao Dai.
公元1744年,阮朝皇帝倡导女性穿着钮扣式上衣与裤装,之后又采用中国清代旗袍领的设计,形成越南奥黛的早期样式。
Modern Ao Dai
In the late 19th century, inspired by the fashions of Paris, designers created French-style Ao Dai.
设计师Nguyen Cat Tuong从巴黎时装获得灵感,设计了一系列明亮色系, 肩膀打折, 圆型低领, 马甲剪裁等具有浓厚法式风格的奥黛, 同时也使用垫肩,袖套, 蕾丝, 流苏等欧式配件。
After 1954, the country was divided. South Vietnam was influenced more by the US culture, leading to the appearance of collarless Ao Dai. This trend was led by the former First Lady of South Vietnam Madame Nhu.
Madame Nhu:Madame Nhu是前南越总统吴庭艳时代的第一夫人, 她常常穿着船领或水手领的奥黛接见外宾。
In 1975, North and South Vietnam were reunited and Ao Dai, regarded as a symbol of capitalism and imperialism by the Vietnamese Communist Party, fell out of favour.
1975年北越解放南方, 奥黛几乎消失殆尽, 因为奥黛被认为不符合劳动人民的穿著, 因此只允许在少数场合例如婚礼时才能穿。
Contemporary Renaissance
1986越南 "革新开放" 以后, 当局重新提倡奥黛, 奥黛因此女性公务人员, 旅馆接待, 新闻主播, 航空公司空姐以及高中女生的标准制服。
1995年东京举办世界小姐选美, 越南姑娘Truong Quynh Mai 以一袭蓝白相闲的锦缎奥黛赢得最佳民族服饰奖。
Truong Quynh Mai
MALE VERSION
Men's Ao Dai--Ao Cuoi were prepared for world leaders who attended the 2006 APEC meeting in Hoanoi, Vietnam.
AoCuoi也是越南的传统民族服饰, 只适用于男性。设计和"奥黛"差不多, 两边开衩, 里衬长裤。长度比"奥黛"略短, 大约在膝盖以下, 脚踝以上。
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